Tuscany

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Florence’s region has shifted its stance in the last couple of decades from a complacent supplier of flask Chianti to the nation’s most creative producer of premium wines. Tuscany’s revolution began in Chianti and the central hills around Siena but quickly spread to take in the coastal zones that were not previously noted for vineyards.  Much of the progress has come with classical reds, as illustrated by the fact that four of Italy’s nine DOCGs are here – Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Chianti and Carmignano. But growing success with other reds (including the stylish table wines sometimes called “Super Tuscans”) and a new breed of whites has enhanced the region’s reputation.  Chianti, still the dominant force in Tuscan viniculture, has ranked as the most Italian of wines for decades. This is partly because it is the most voluminous and widely sold classified wine, but also because it has a personality that cannot be pinned do cover a vast territory of central Tuscany. In these often rugged hills variations in soil and climate contribute as much to the individuality of each authentic estate wine as do producers’ quests for a personal style. These variations may be confusing, but for consumers who persist Chianti offers some of the best quality for value in wine today.  Since Chianti was elevated to DOCG in 1984,its production has sharply diminished and its quality has markedly improved. Chianti may be identified by its subdistricts, though only producers of Classico – whose consortium is symbolized by a black rooster – have made much of a geographical point so far. Many estates emphasize the name of a certain vineyard or area as a mark of distinction.  What Chianti has in common with all the classified red wines of Tuscany is its major grape variety Sangiovese. In the past varieties were often blended, but today the emphasis is strongly on Sangiovese. When the habitat is right, its superior clones – Montalcino’s Brunello, Chianti’s Sangioveto and Montepulciano’s Prugnolo Gentile – must be ranked with Italy’s, and the world’s noblest vines.